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Junya Watanabe Fall 2025: Making a Point With Clothing

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Do you have a prickly personality, but having trouble finding clothes that suit you? Junya Watanabe has you covered for fall, his biker jackets, trench coats and capes sprouting all manner of spiky protrusions to ensure people keep their distance – excepting street-style photographers. The designer has been exploring jutting, geometric constructions for several seasons, which can read futuristic, or manga. Here, they mostly exuded a rock ‘n’ roll attitude reinforced by the Jimi Hendrix jam sessions booming from two giant speaker stacks, which models loped past in the half dark, lank hair parted and plastered on their faces, on their way to a V-shaped runway of pockmarked concrete. They wore tight, flaring pants just like the American guitarist and singer did. Backstage, Watanabe said Hendrix was an idol at the time he started designing clothes, and the box set released last year inspired him anew, though his main intention with the collection was to “consider clothing from a cubist perspective.” You May Also Like While this show lacked the surprise and poetry of some Watanabe outings, it reinforced the Japanese designer’s mastery over his treasured outerwear archetypes, especially the MA-1. Here the famous sage-green flight jacket became a triangular cape, as fearsome as a B-2 stealth bomber, or a grand opera coat with a bubble back and a fishtail hem. Peplum jackets and coats with glossy, triangulated surfaces were fierce – metaverse garments brought to vivid life. His biker jackets were also strong, many jutting into flaring little capes. One was squared off into a perfect box with a sharp shoulder line looming round the cranial base. In a similar vein, Watanable inserted a square plane into the neckline of a blue velvet dress, its white lace-collar splayed on it like a doily on a table set for tea. Cuppa prickly pear, anyone?

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